My 3 Favorites


#1

These are my 3 Favs (in no particular order)



Left to right: 2010 814ce-Ltd 12 fret short scale, Sitka over EIR ,WAHI nut and saddle, Expression electronics
2012 GS Custom (BTO), short scale,Adirondack top w/Adi CV bracing over Mahogany, bone nut and saddle. no
electronics
2011 414ce-LTD,Sitka w/CV bracing over EIR, bone nut- WAHI saddle, Expression electronics
The 12 fret is truly a joy to play, The 414 is used capoed @2nd fret, The GS is new and still being tweaked.
All three necks are the same, which made set-up, etc easier. I haven’t done a lot to the GS yet, but first on the list is a WAHI saddle. Taylor did a good job on the nut (gonna lower the b and e). The guitar is killer sound wise.
Steve


#2

Great looking group ya got there S MS Picker!


#3

Nice group of guitars. The 12 fret/Slot 814 looks pretty unique. I don’t think I’ve seen one of those before. The adi top probably likes being out and getting a little sun tan. I’ve got one about a year old, and it’s finally changing color a little bit.

What are your thoughts on WAHI, Bone and Tusq? I have A/Bd ivory and bone, but I’ve not thrown tusq into the mix. I have some tusq, but never changed to bone or ivory on them.


#4

— Begin quote from "mreisz"

What are your thoughts on WAHI, Bone and Tusq? I have A/Bd ivory and bone, but I’ve not thrown tusq into the mix. I have some tusq, but never changed to bone or ivory on them.

— End quote

I really like the WAHI,for replacement nuts especially.I do all my own work, and WAHI’s $$ encourage building it right. The sound from WAHI is “bolder” to my ears on open strings.( I really don’t understand why zero frets aren’t used more). Bone is fine too.(subtle difference to ivory) Tusq sounds good also,but to me on some guitars it has a twangy sound. I have a maple Taylor GS that sounds it’s best w/Tusq nut and saddle.(seems to go to sleep w/bone or ivory ??)Using Tusq that has to be fitted , as opposed to dropping right in works better.Tusq seems to work better w/USTs most of the time also.

The bone and ivory depends a lot on the material quality.With semi-polished ivory you can tell how the grain runs. I’ve had good results using pieces w/grain lenghtwise. Seens to work and sound better. With bone, I hold the blank up to a strong light and look for dark spots. I use the ones w’no or few dark spots. The dark spots seem softer. You can’t see light through a good WAHI saddle blank.(Bob Colosi radiused blanks are great).

All that being said,fit is probably as important as anything.When I ran my shop, any guitar older than 5 or 6 years got the bottom of the saddle slot trued up nice and flat. ($50.00 extra) A flat slot is essential IMHO for optimum vibration transfer.
On the other hand,I have a Taylor dread that I lessened the contact under the G string. The G wolfed at every fret, but that evened her up. I like a saddle that is snug in the slot. Some bone blanks won’t true up if they’re not thick enough to begin with. My bone is water buffalo from the Far East. I bought oversized blanks a dozen at a time and use the good ones,and experiment w/the rest.Out of a dozen there’s usually 3 or 4 that are pure crap, and 3 or 4 that are really good.I’ve not bought any in about 5 yrs, so I don’t know what it’s like now.

Yea that Adi top is brand new. I’m been giving her the "Prime Vibe " treatment. She has about 50 or so hrs on her and probably 10 hrs playing. I can hear a difference already. I usually don’t name my guitars,but I ordered her with a plain rosette and super small position markers. Her name is Plain Jane, and she’s developing into a killer acoustic. One of the most responsive guitars I’ve ever had the pleasure to play. The Gotoh machines are great.Heres a link to more pics of Jane
s1067.beta.photobucket.com/user/ … r/library/
Click on Show Albums and Stories. There’s a ton of guitar pictures,in all states of repair. Some of these I still have and would sell for a pittance of what I’ve in them. :wink:

Steve


#5

Thanks Steve,
I might have to try the WAHI. I had “fossilized ivory” on one and tried bone (only the nut), and preferred the bone slightly. That particular ivory was mellower and warmer than the bone. The bone had a more aggressive tone. The guitars I have with TUSQ also have USTs, so I haven’t been real motivated to try anything else. I have one with bone that I am getting ready to fit a TUSQ saddle (just to have one with lower action), and I will be curious to see what happens going in that direction.

That’s a neat approach to the loud G string. Did you just slightly deepen the slot under the G string?

There’s lots of pretty pictures at your link. I think you had a Brazillian 710 for sale a while back. I should have made room, but I couldn’t pick one to get rid of :slight_smile: I still kick myself a bit over that one.


#6

By the way, I like shaking my guitars some too. I have a tone rite. I was skeptical when I bought it, but I have come to the conclusion that it does make a difference. It won’t make a mediocre sounding guitar a great one, but it helps noticeably. I have one that has been on for weeks when when I am not playing it. The strings are shot, and I’ll be changing them out soon… kind of excited to hear what she does.


#7

Yea, sold The Braz. I got that slot head and really loved the neck profile. Taylor kinda changed the profile or something,and they feel better to me now.The necks on those 3 feel the same, kinda like my old Taylors that Katrina claimed.
Bob Colosi has some good reading about ivory.
On that G string, I slightly sanded material from the bottom of the saddle. I use a machinist square to check flatness.When i could barely see light(I use a blacklight) I stopped. I got lucky and hit it the first time.(Saved a set of strings :slight_smile: )I didn’t true the slot,so it could have been slightly higher there.She;s nice and balanced now. It’s ovankol back and sides with sitka,short scale(24-7/8 vs 25-1/2),cutaway,AA expression system. The acoustic sound is great,kinda between mahogany and rosewood. Cuts a mic really well without boominess or sacrificing the bottom-mids. The electronics sound good, once you dial them in.(A hassle sometimes)
If you notice all that junk on the stand w/the slot-head,that’s cables,a strap and a LR Baggs Gig Pro pre-amp. If I can’t run balanced out for some reason, I use the Baggs. I don’t care what Taylor says, the unbalanced signal works better w/pre amping.
My favorite system is Fishman’s Acoustic blender. Has a UST and condenser mic. Wire them to stereo out, plug into 2 channels and kick butt.
Steve


#8

Thanks Shawn.
I’ve been a Taylor fanatic since the early "90s. I’ also had a Martin D3-18 that was my go to for bluegrass for a long time. Katrina got it and 2 Taylors. With these 3 pictured, I’ve quit looking for guitars. The 2 A/E cutaways are great for clubs,(don’t play out like I used to) etc., while the GS is a great sounding guitar now,I can’t wait til she plays in some more.
Steve


#9

— Begin quote from "mreisz"

That particular ivory was mellower and warmer than the bone.
I’ve read that the fossil stuff has to be “conditioned” and is softer. If it was truly fossilized, it’d be a rock. :laughing:
Steve

— End quote


#10

— Begin quote from "S MS Picker"

…( I really don’t understand why zero frets aren’t used more)…

— End quote

http://www.zeroglide.com/


#11

That zeroGlide is pretty slick looking. I might try one.


#12

Cool link.