Forum - Banjo Ben Clark

Factors in ease of playing?

Sometimes I’ve picked up a nice instrument and I’ve been struck by how easy it is to play. I know the action and string gauge make a big difference. Are there other factors that contribute to “ease of playing?”

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Having a radius fretboard is a big thing for me. If this counts, definitely the picks you use but that’s not really part of the instrument. If it’s a banjo, bridge height and spacing are also important

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For me the wideness of the neck is always a huge factor. I like a more narrow neck on a guitar as it feels good for my hand. A nice easy action is good too.

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Yep, radius amount and nut/bridge spacing are the others. It’s amazing what an instrument that you “like” can make you play so much better.

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What everyone says already pretty much speaks for me so not much I can ad that hasn’t been said but can maybe ad this.

Was watching one of those restoration shows where a piano was being restored. They would sometimes have celebrities on the show and this time they had Billy Joel. Was an old piano in rough shape. Billy Joel started noodling on it just testing it out and then talked about what a difficult instrument it would be to play. I know how certain guitars are very difficult to play, mostly cheaper models, so I could relate to what he was saying. Then he got serious and proceeded to tear it up and play like a virtuoso. So for him it was talent that led to ease of playing.

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Yes, maybe he did, but he didn’t play like he would have it was a good instrument. Piano players know what he’s talking about. I sit down at some pianos and think: oh man, this is gonna be good.

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Yeah for sure Ben. I think with a guy who is as good as that, just hard for me to see the difference, but like you said, I’m sure he can tell.

Billy Joel - Prelude / Angry Young Man (from Tonight - Connecticut 1976) - Bing video

I think the two things that are most often overlooked (or could be improved) in setup are nut action (height) and layout (string spacing and edge clearance). String height and relief get more attention, but that nut setup is huge (and time consuming to get great) in how it will feel. Scale length also makes a surprising difference in the feel of an instrument. In short it takes everything mentioned above by everyone to make it great.

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I have the beginning of arthritis in my left thumb joint and my knuckles of my left hand… in talking with a friend of mine (now deceased) about my issues, he (also a very good guitarist) ran down to his basement and brought up a guitar he had made that had an gentle offset “V” neck instead of the more conventional “C” shape. He asked me to try it - and the offset “V” (in other words the ridge of the V was toward the top of the neck) allowed me to rest my thumb on the top of the neck instead of gripping the neck as I was used to doing. I loved it and immediately hired him to build me an electric guitar with that offset V-neck configuration. That one thing saved my guitar hand. The guitar is a telecaster style, and is my main instrument now, as it is so easy on my left hand. Should I ever spring for a handmade acoustic, I will get the same kind of neck. As it is, I can only play my acoustic for 30-45 minutes at a stretch, but I can play that Tele for hours non-stop.

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Sorry to hear about your condition Mr G. I had broken my left thumb playing sports when I was younger to where it never properly healed and has given me problems. Not sure if you have already done this or not, but stretching exercises have helped me a lot. I still try and avoid using my little finger as much as possible because using it creates more stress on my left hand. Seems to create an unnatural stretch. With bluegrass can do lots of open notes to where you don’t have to use the little finger very much. When Ben demonstrates how to play a song and there are parts where he uses his little finger, I will play it a different way. Could be I am telling you things you are already doing, but yeah, I’ve always had to play with pain, but have been able to work around it.

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Are there “standards” for what would be considered a good setup?

We just bought me a Yamaha FG5 that the fella we bought it from said he had professionally setup. He gave me the measurements.

Relief .008
Nut .018
Action (capo on 1st fret and measuring at the 12th) .095 low e and .080 high e.

Does this sound typical? It feels pretty good to me but I’m a newbie and don’t know what I don’t know. I’ve never played someone else’s bluegrass/flatpicking guitar to compare to.

Hope this isn’t out of line?

Tom (DEGG)

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Yep, that’s not far from typical. It’s not exactly what I shoot for, but it’s reasonable. I might go with a smidge less relief if it would work. I think Martin spec is .010, but I usually go a little flatter (I try dead flat and add relief until buzz quits and sometimes, pretty near dead flat works). The low E action is right at my target for “low” action, (3/32 or .09375). The treble E seems a bit high in comparison. I shoot for 1/16 (.0625) on it. For the nut action, I no longer measure (I use the string and first fret to set it), but that is a reasonable spec for low action. You asked for standards… I gave opinions. I grabbed a book and here is Martin specs:
relief: .010
Bass E action: 3/32 to 7/64 (I’ve seen higher on their new instruments, so maybe the spec has changed)
Treble E action: 1/16 to 5/64
String height at the nut: Bass E .024 max, Treble E .016 MINIMUM

Note: although those are Martin specs, I think they aim higher than that now. Most I have bought new I had to lower. The only exception was a demo guitar for the NAMM show, and they actually had that one setup a bit low for my tastes.

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Thank you Mike. This is very helpful. Again, I don’t know what I don’t know. But, now I’m learning with your help!

Tom (DEGG)

Glad to help Tom. I hope that you enjoy the new guitar!

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Good advice! And yup… I stretch a lot. Thank you!