Well, here’s my tuppence… I’ve heard that the holes you have to drill to install the sliding capo lower the value, while installing spikes can actually raise the value. Spikes look better IMPO. As to feel, I’ve played both, and I don’t notice either when playing, but I also don’t wrap my thumb very far. The presence of the sliding capo could help you locate the fifth fret subconsciously, but could also get in the way. If you have spikes, be careful when fretting the fifth, as you could spike your finger. I’m just thinking out loud, I’m not sure how much of this need be considered, it’s just what I’ve considered.
Spikes or Shubb 5th String
Thanks @JoeB I’m defo gonna do the spikes myself as I’m a cue maker so have all the gear to hand
What frets did you decide to do?
7, 9, and 10. Some folks do 8 as well, but I am not sure how often the key of Bb comes up.
My Stelling has spikes fitted at the 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th frets. Perhaps not the most popular key but Bb does come up from time to time on certain tunes. I quite like Bb as it adds another colour to the sound palette.
You didn’t have them put in when you bought it?
More often than most fiddlers and mandolinists would prefer!
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I absolutely love Bb on the fiddle, mondo, and bass!
fingering the I & V with the III being open gives a great different sound and feeling of control to the instrument.
You seem to be the exception, based on mandolin cafe. And you’re also much more advanced than most folks who dislike it
Just a different position to figure out…I prefer it a lot over G or C for certain things
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well, I wrote a tune on guitar in Bb. but that’s G capoed three. I haven’t learned it on the fiddle yet though
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Cool
We’re kinda drifting off of the OP though
back to regular programing…
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If you don’t do 8, you’re gonna need 8. Do 8.
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no Ben… but i don’t mind tackling them i’m pretty handy with woodwork and tools
i think 7,8,9,10 it is to cover most bases even though im not at the Capo stage of playing yet… i will be at some point
Thanks all for the replies
ok thanks for that
No you will need a bit smaller than 1/32. The model rr spikes are less that that. Check out the deering link I posted above. It has dimensions for what you need.
Hi Joe, That’s what I used and what @Jake recommends in his vid. If your spikes are smaller then perhaps a smaller drill bit will be required. My only concern would be that the spikes may be a shade too narrow and would bend when you try to hammer them in.
I believe the spikes I used are H/0. 
1/32 may work, but there is no room for error.