https://banjobenclark.com/lessons/how-to-change-your-guitar-strings-guitar-beginner
Changing guitar strings is a good skill to master. There’s nothing to be afraid of, even when mistakes are made!
https://banjobenclark.com/lessons/how-to-change-your-guitar-strings-guitar-beginner
Changing guitar strings is a good skill to master. There’s nothing to be afraid of, even when mistakes are made!
I must say, that was quite entertaining watching the Oh snap segment. I haven’t done that. Yet.
I currently am using the EJ22s, per your recommendation, and I really like them. Has anyone ever tried the D’addario Nickel bronze?
Jonathan, yes. Just last week I strung a set of D’Addario NB 12s on my Martin D-13 Siris. My immediate impression with the first few strums was YUCK lol but now that I’ve been playing them a while, I think that was more a function of my ears adjusting to the difference in tone vs. the PB strings I am used to hearing. I had read somewhere that PB was an invention of the early 70s and that prior, all acoustic strings were monel. So, I became curious if the NB would bring out a more “vintage” sound. They are brighter with less bass boom than PB , but for sure this guitar now has a great Lo Fi vintage tone that I am really enjoying. In fact, I was planning to sell this guitar but now with the NB strings, I’ve fallen in love with my D-13 again and plan to keep it
I’ll be curious to hear any reactions to possible negative consequences of my technique. I’ve found that if I put a very minor bend (about 15 degrees) to the ball end of the string, about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch from the ball, and then orient the string with the bend pointed toward the headstock, it makes the ball end sit under the bridge plate and not get caught under the pin end when inserting the pin. Gentle upward tension on the string as the pin is inserted will almost always result in the proper seating of the string. I’ve never seen a string break at the bridge end due to this approach. Comments?
I’ve seen that bend recommended on Tony Polecastro’s video on changing strings, I think. It was quite some time ago, so maybe I am wrong on it being him, but I’ve been doing it ever since with no ill effects. I agree that it helps keep the ball from getting snagged on the end of the bridge pins. Another technique I like is to install all of the ball ends first and reaching into the sound hole to feel and ensure each are snugly butted against the bridge plate before attaching at the tuning posts.
I am very much an amateur but have found I prefer to place all strings in pin s before winding any onto tuners as it allows me to not break concentration on “ which string is next” after doing low E string.
I also use a pin remover from Martin which looks like a giant ring with a slot in the edge. Works better and never damages pins. I rematch pins to their holes as well.
I already have a power screw driver which turns VERY slowly as compared to a drill and purchased a head that fits the tuners and works great. Also have a mat to place under the guitar body just like the ones which sell for $40 but got at a surplus store for $2.
Great video but OH SNAP segment in addition to being helpful just seems to suggest that Banjo Ben may very well be human like all,of us.
Human, I is for sure.
Ben, I enjoyed watching your string changing tutorial. After all these years, string changing remains a chore. Perhaps it’s a fear of possibly damaging an expensive guitar. I use the same process except put a bend in the ball end as recommended by Justin and insert all six strings before doing any windings… Making sure the strings are seated properly is my biggest problem. A couple of my guitars sound best with the Nickel Bronze strings which unlike other strings seem to improve with age. Unless I’m mistaken, I didn’t see a mat under the guitar body. Now if I could only pick and play like you!
Thanks! I do have a circular mat under the guitar where it contacts the table, tough to see.