Great idea @HeloSteve , if I had a capo I’d definitely try it! Since I don’t, what I use is one of those black rubber harmonic suppression grommets. I loop the string over the hook in the tail piece then slip on a grommet. Holds string from unhooking while I get the other end taken care of, then I just take it off & reuse for nex string, etc. Works great! (Dont know if it makes a difference or not but my mando has cast tailpiece)
The funny thing is - I dont use the grommets for suppression, just string changing (they were in the case when I bought my mando)
Discuss the Mandolin lesson: How to Change Mandolin Strings, String Study & More!
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Yo @BanjoBen maybe I missed it, if so please advise. How do I know when should I change my mandolin strings? Thanks.
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Very subjective, because it depends on the environment you’re in, how much you play, type of strings, and your hand chemistry. It’s really something you learn to gauge as you go. If in doubt, go ahead and change them. BUT, play your mandolin a few minutes before you do so that afterward you can judge the difference that was made with new strings. After a while you’ll get into a pattern.
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hi fellas, i really appreciate the detail that you go into here. I’ve got a question for you. how can i tell that my mandolin is set up correctly and that the bridge is in the right place?? i just picked up mandolin about 3months ago, i had a sweet gibson A style circa 1930s, that got run over (oh no!!) it was totaled. so i went out an got me a Loar LM 110. i’m thinking it is a pretty good instrument. i’ve played guitar for a lot of years, but i’m starting from scratch with the mandolin. any wisdom you can impart would be greatly appreciated. thanks much, Toni
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Welcome to the forum, Toni!
You can tell if a mandolin’s bridge is in the correct spot by checking the intonation: Play a harmonic at the 12th fret, then fret the string at the 12th fret. If the fretted note is flatter than the harmonic, the bridge is too far back. If the fretted note is sharper than the harmonic, the bridge is too far forward. The goal is for the harmonic and the fretted note to match.
So sorry to hear about your Gibson mandolin, by the way!
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I haven’t done one specifically for mandolin, but here’s Jake’s video on setting a banjo bridge–it shows the concept of using the harmonics for positioning: https://youtu.be/rtJtHy-Pi5U
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Does anyone know of some kind of super-coated long-lasting mandolin strings? For a long time I’ve just been using uncoated D’addarios because they are relatively cheap and sound good, but recently I’ve been getting more into mandolin playing and would like to find a set that I don’t have to change every day in order to keep practicing.
So far I’ve tried D’addario EXP, XT, XS, Elixir (which all have uncoated plain steels), and Cleartone (which have coated plain steels, but still don’t last any longer than uncoated).
At this point, I care much less about tone/sound and will gladly sacrifice that if a set lasts me maybe a week or so of intermittent practice. I’m not doing 5 hour practice sessions either; I probably played my mandolin for about 45 minutes before the Cleartones started to make slides difficult (I was even wiping down the strings every 5 minutes or so).
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@Michael_Mark,
It seems that folks have totally different chemistry and ears. To my ear, the plain EJ74 strings are usable for a long time. Even after they lose their zippyness, they have a nice tone. I run them for months before they start intonating weird. I actually like the mellower sound after they have had the new knocked off of them. But of course, your chemistry and ear are different.
For guitar, the string I have found that lasts arguably the longest in feel and tone are the Martin monels (TR13 and such). It looks like D’Addario has a mandolin string set based on similar chemistry (see link below). To be clear, I have NOT tried them yet, but based on my experience with the other monels, I suggest giving them a shot. I will be ordering a set with my next order. Monels have a good woody/fundamental tone that I think would likely be appealing on a mandolin, but your mileage may vary.
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Cool. I’ve tried the Tony Rice Monels on guitar– I love the tone, but I use Elixirs for practice since I can play them much longer.
I haven’t had many problems with the tone of mandolin strings… I just kill them dead before they even have a chance to lose their tone. 
Once I played a friend’s mandolin and he said “Yeah I really need to change those strings; they’ve been on there a few weeks.” My thoughts were, “Mine are worse than this after 10 minutes!”
Fast-Fret probably gives me another day or so though.
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100% serious! I have literally killed strings that fast.
Sometimes I feel sorry for people whose instruments I play, because I use up about a week of their string life after one song
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This may be the wrong location to ask this, or even a dumb question. I’ve been playing for a short time (few months), And on my G strings, no matter how hard I depress the strings I get a metallic buzz, not when played open, just when fretted. My Mandolin is an Eastman 315, and I’ve tried a “the Loar” mandolin and the fret seems to be higher and I do not get the same buzz when playing on that G string. I felt like it may be buzzing against the next fret down so I tried to raise the bridge and no change. same sound. Any ideas?
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Where did you buy it? What kind of strings are you using? How much did you raise the bridge–is it hard to play? Where does the buzzing stop when going up the frets?
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Hi, I purchased it from Music Villa in Bozeman, MT. I have D’Addario EJ45 strings. I only raised it on the top side 3/4 of a turn on the screw, I don’t have a way to measure it precisely. It is not hard to play. When fretted on the G string there is no buzz until the 3-11 frets, the worst being 5,6,7,8.
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That sounds like it might be the relief. To check my relief, I hold down the string at the first fret and about the thirteenth to use the string as a straightedge. On a mandolin I want it almost flat, where there would be a very little gap in the middle of the “straight edge” around the 7th fret. If it is too close to see if there is a gap, you can use another finger to push down in the middle while holding the first and thirteenth. If the instrument hasn’t been setup, it would likely be money well spent to get a setup. You can also DIY.
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Thank you. So when depressed at the 1st and 13th fret, it seems straight, with a very small (gnats eyelash) gap at the 7th fret. Does that mean I need more relief in the neck?
It was set up when purchased, but maybe I need to go have it looked at again, I’m about 70 miles from the closest paved road and another 4 hours to a music store, so I appreciate the help and advice you all give.
It might need a little more relief, but a gnat’s eyelash sounds about right. Did it always buzz?
Since you said it isn’t hard to play, you could raise the action a bit more to see how much it takes to help. In the winter, tops dry out and sink which causes the action to go down a little bit. That might be factoring into it as well.
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Howdy Hollie!
This is a guitar in this video but concept works the same on mando…make small adjustments!
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@Mike_R I cannot thank you enough. I added some relief in the neck, checked by using a straight edge. Then raised the bridge even more. It finally makes a clean note when fretted all the way down the fret board. it doesn’t seem any more difficult to play with the high action, maybe just a little towards the higher end but not bad. Very much appreciated. We have some cold weather and I think your right about the dry air. Very grateful to you, thank you sir.
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@BanjoBen Thank you! this all worked very well, and I can finally make a clean note on the G strings. This website had been a continual source of blessings, thank you!
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